Turkey goes to the polls this month, but no matter the outcome, American travelers should know that Istanbul is not only a safe destination to visit but also one of the best travel bargains around. The city has a rich, sophisticated culture, comfortable accommodations, good shopping, and great food at budget-traveler prices. (Recently, the Turkish lire has fluctuated from 1.5 to 1.7 million to a dollar.)

If you have only three or four days in which to see this infinitely fascinating and sprawling city of approximately 15 million, Contributing Editor Susan Davidson, who just returned from a trip there, suggests a good way to divide your time.

Day One

Without a doubt, Susan says, your first day should be spent in Sultanahmet, the oldest part of the city. Here you'll find two of the most famous buildings in the world:

- The Blue Mosque, built in the 17th century and still used as a house of worship, is flooded with natural light that appears tinted blue, reflecting the Iznik tiles lining the walls.

- Hagia Sophia is a Byzantine church built in 537. The Ottomans added fortifying buttresses and minarets.

- In addition, don't miss Topkapi, a complex of sultans' residences, parks, a museum (called The Treasury), and a harem that Susan says is a must.

- Within walking distance of all these attractions is the Four Seasons Hotel, an elegant hotel in what was once a prison; you won't find a more peaceful or polished place to have lunch or a drink (more information: 638-82-00; www.fourseasons.com/istanbul).

- For a great seafood dinner, try Balikci Sabahattin (Hasankuyu No. 1; 458-18-24), where the atmosphere is friendly and the meze (Turkish appetizers) are delicious. The intrepid might try raki, an anise-flavored Turkish drink, but be warned that it's 40 proof.

Day Two

Since Istanbul straddles both Europe and Asia, and most hotels are on the European side, a visit to Asia is a must if for no other reason than to say you've done it. Ask the hotel concierge where to get ...

- The Ferry to Asia, a ride of no more than 10 minutes that costs about five cents and leaves from the neighborhood known as Karakoy, just south of the Galata Tower and Taksim Square. Walk around, stop for coffee, then go back to the European side for a trip along the Bosphorus. The ferry leaves from Eminonu, which is in Sultanahmet, across the Karakoy Bridge from Karakoy. You'll see ...

- The Dolmabahçe Palace near Besiktas, dating from the Ottoman era, a baroque mixture of oriental and occidental styles and quite an eyeful. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays, otherwise open 9 to 4 (258-55-44).

- Çiragan Palace Hotel Kempinski, east of the Dolmabahçe Palace in the fashionable Bebek neighborhood, has a very pretty waterside restaurant (258-33-77, www.kempinski.com).

- Bebek, the trendiest section of Istanbul, is filled with clubs and restaurants, including...

- Poseidon (Cevdetpasa No. 58; 263-38-23) for a dinner of exceptional red mullet.

Day Three

Oh, dear. Time is running short.

Nonshoppers might opt for ...

- The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art (open Tuesday through Sunday, 10:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.), the Museum of Mosaics (open Wednesday through Thursday, 9:30 a.m.-5:00 p.m.), or the Museum of Calligraphy (open Tuesday through Saturday, 9:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m.; 518-18-05).

Shoppers, follow me to ...

- The Grand Bazaar (also known as the Covered Market), is a labyrinth of more than 4,000 shops, where prices are never fixed and bargaining is expected. If that's not your style, there's plenty of shopping elsewhere. Rugs and jewelry of varying quality and price are ubiquitous, but the fact that Turkey has very fine fabrics at a fraction of US prices is a well- kept secret.

- Penelope (Nisantasi Eytam Cd. Acikhava, Apt. No. 16/5, Sisli) is the place for upholstery fabrics, and Antelope, across the hall, sells high-quality bed and bath linens.

- Also in the Sultanahmet neighborhood (where you toured the Blue Mosque your first day) are plenty of fine boutiques with price tags to match--just a few blocks away from the hubbub of the Grand Bazaar. And if you're a bit chilly, visit one of the best hamams, or baths, in Istanbul. The Cemberlitas Baths (Viziehan Can., No. 8) were designed by a famous architect, Mimar Sinan, and built in 1584. The edifice is considered one of the most important examples of 16th century Ottoman architecture. There are separate sections for men and women. Plan to spend about 90 minutes steaming and getting soaped up and rubbed down by pros; you'll emerge feeling pounds lighter, toasty warm, and very refreshed. The hamam is open every day from 6 a.m. until midnight. Cost is about $15--you can tip a couple more dollars.

- Istiklal Caddesi, a pedestrian walkway stretching from Taksim Square to Tunel, is interesting not so much because of the goods sold there (CDs, casual clothing, fast food), but for the people-watching. Time for a break? At the end of the street and around the corner you'll find ...

- Keve (Tunel Geçidi 10 Beyoglu; 251-4338), a charming café with a menu to satisfy any level of craving. Across the street are several galleries--Ottomania is one of Susan's favorites-- selling used books and old prints. While in the neighborhood, don't miss two remarkable buildings:

- Hotel Pera Palas, built at the end of the 19th century to accommodate Europeans traveling on the Orient Express, has made no concessions to modernity (251-45-60; www.perapalas.com).

- The American Consulate, a block from the Pera Palas, is an Italianate mansion that was won by a former ambassador in a poker game (251-36-02).

Day Four

For a pleasant and restful day's excursion, take a boat to the Princes' Islands, where transportation is by bicycle or horse- drawn buggy.

November 2002