(It was on the second hole at Pennard, the ancient links course near the town of Swansea in South Wales, where contributing writer Richard Busch's tee shot landed about a foot from the backside of a very large brown and white cow. The cow was in repose on the edge of the fairway, calmly chewing her cud. It was the middle of a golfing tour of Wales, where Richard discovered one of the often overlooked golfing destinations in the world. We asked him to scout it for us, and this is his personal--and very entertaining--report.)

As I headed toward her for my second shot, my cow looked up for a moment with a bored expression, then went on chewing. But there was no way I could hit the ball with her lying there, so I took out my five iron and gave her a gentle nudge on the rump. "Move along, move along," I said. And so she did, very slowly, looking a little put out, though I had the feeling that this sort of intrusion was nothing new to her. Aside from the cow, though, it was a pretty good drive.

Before coming to Pennard, I'd been told about the cows, dozens of them, that belong to several local farmers who have had grazing rights on this land ever since it became a golf course in the 1890s. (The greens, I discovered, are protected from hoof damage by two-foot-high wires, which keep the four-legged critters away but allow golfers to easily step over them.) Someone had also mentioned the sizable herd of wild ponies that has been here for as long as anyone can remember. Coming up on one tee box on the back nine, we found several ponies lying on their sides, blissfully snoozing away the afternoon, oblivious to our foursome as we hit our drives.

This was my first golfing trip to Wales, and although I played on several excellent courses in the southern part of the country, Pennard was the highlight for me--not only because of the odd but charming presence of cows and ponies, but also because of the links experience itself. Links courses are named for the land that lies between (or links) the sea and the mainland, and most are distinguished by their roughness and sandy soil. No manicured, American-style fairways. Pennard lies at an elevation of about 200 feet, with sweeping views over Three Cliff Bay and Oxwich Bay. The fairways roll and tumble, like freeze-frame views of ocean swells, and golf balls have a habit of trickling off fairways every which way. And the rough, although harmless-looking from a distance, is often choked with bracken and gorse amid deep and treacherous pot bunkers. As a duffer with a double-digit handicap, I found Pennard challenging to say the least, but also--because of its unique character--one of the most enjoyable courses I've ever played.

I had come to Wales to experience something that few Americans seem to be aware of--the area's good golf. Mention Great Britain and golf in the same breath, and most people think of Scotland, where famous courses like St. Andrews, Carnoustie, and Muirfield get all the publicity as venues for the prestigious British Open. But unbeknownst to many, Wales offers some of the most beautiful, historic, and (if you want) difficult courses anywhere in Britain or Ireland (though with almost 200 courses to choose from, there are plenty of forgiving courses for the golfer with average skills).

With its championship courses--from the shoreline links of Royal Porthcawl (1995 host of the Walker Cup, a competition among the best amateurs in Britain and Ireland vs. the US) to the manicured greens of the Celtic Manor Resort (host of the Wales Open and selected venue for the 2010 Ryder Cup)--as well as its lesser known but still notable venues, Wales can justly claim respect as one of the best golfing destinations anywhere. But because it's relatively unknown--at least so far--golfers will encounter significantly smaller crowds and lower prices compared with Wales's more famous British and Irish brethren.

And there's yet another plus: a pleasant climate. Bathed by the warmth of the Gulf Stream, Wales enjoys a long season, with many months of mild weather. And visitors' chances of encountering sunny days on a golfing holiday here are much greater than in the more northern, especially Scottish, climes.

On top of all these plusses, Wales offers a smorgasbord of handsome and comfortable hotels, inns, country houses, spas, even castles, some with histories that go back centuries. All offer good food and traditional British hospitality, often at moderate prices. And the visitor finds countless opportunities for sightseeing and shopping in the charming Welsh towns and villages dotted all over this small, manageable, Massachusetts-size country. Indeed, non-golfing spouses will find plenty of enjoyable things to see and do while their mates indulge their sporting instincts.

These towns and golf courses in South Wales are an easy 90- minute drive from London; those in the northern part of the country a similar distance from Manchester. I chose to fly in and out of London. Among the dozens of courses in the South and Southwest, I focused on three that were within easy striking distance from Cardiff, Newport, and Swansea.

To the east of Cardiff, outside the town of Newport, lies the mammoth Celtic Manor Resort, built on the site of a former Roman settlement where some 5,000 legionnaires were once stationed. Quite new (1995), it's a five-star property with more than 400 rooms and three 18-hole courses. Two were designed by Robert Trent Jones (the Roman Road Course follows the contours of an ancient Roman highway); the third, Wentwood Hills, which has the imprint of his son, Robert, Jr., will be the site of the 2010 Ryder Cup.

It rained steadily the day we arrived, but the experience of playing a championship course--particularly one that will be graced by the likes of Tiger Woods, Phil Mickelson, Sergio Garcia, and the others representing the best European and American golfers--outweighed the discomfort of water trickling down my neck. So we braved the elements for all 18 holes. And I'm really glad we did. Wentwood Hills is a magnificent course, with some of the most interesting terrain and beautiful views I've ever encountered. I didn't play well, but considering the weather and the challenge of a championship course, I forgave myself. In fact, I took great pleasure in the experience, including a hot cuppa tea at the 19th hole. And when the Ryder Cup rolls around in seven years, I'll surely be in front of the tube, taking delight in the knowledge that Tiger and Co. are walking in my footsteps.

In the end, the links courses were the ones that captured my fancy. The last one I played was Tenby, located west of Swansea on the south coast, not far from a medieval walled town. Founded in 1888, it's the oldest golf club in Wales, though golf was actually played here long before that. According to historical records going back to 1875, there's a reference to an annual court proceeding in which local complaints were judged. In one year, it is written, the court was adjourned while the mayor and chief magistrate went out for a round of golf. (Having played hooky from work myself to get in an afternoon 18, I was pleased to learn that they too had their priorities straight.)

Tenby stretches for a relatively short 6,337 yards, but the narrow, sloping fairways, blind shots around trees, undulating greens, and frequent winds make up for the compact design. It's no wonder the course regularly qualifies as one of the best in Britain. And yet, it's a great bargain, like most of the courses in Wales. Greens fees are about $30 weekdays, and about $36 on weekends.

Tenby is open year-round, and is home to the Divots Society, whose members play golf on Sunday mornings in the winter.

"A divot," explains one member, "is basically a clot, and all those who play golf in some of the weather we endure deserve the title."

And I realized then that I was an honorary Divot since I was hopelessly hooked on Wales golf, and would certainly be back for more.

Golfing in Wales: Just the Facts

Fly into London or Manchester. The country code is 44.

Pennard Golf Club
2 Southgate Road, Southgate, Swansea
1792-333131

Celtic Manor Resort
Coldra Woods, Newport, Gwent
1633-413-000; fax: 1633-410-269
http://www.celtic-manor.com
E-mail: bookings@celtic-manor.com
Doubles: $236-$410

Tenby Golf Club
The Burrows
Tenby, Pembrokeshire
1834-842978

Other notable courses in South Wales include Royal St. David's, Aberdovey, Nefyn, Vale, and Royal Porthcawl. For information on all courses in Wales, contact the Wales Tourist Board at http://golfing.visitwales.com; 29-2047-5238; fax 29-2047-5321. Another good web site is http://golftravelwales.com.

March 2003