When my father invited me to see how things have changed in Washington County, ME, since my last visit, I was a little apprehensive about bringing my husband to see the towns my family has a deep attachment to--Robbinston, Perry, Calais, Eastport, Machias, and Lubec.

But on my return, I realized this easternmost point of the US where I grew up is no less beautiful because of its familiarity. Fortunately, it turned out my husband shared my feelings.

Northeastern Maine is still largely undiscovered by the hordes of tourists that descend on southern Maine each summer. Prices are affordable, and crowds aren't a problem. You won't find Michelin-starred restaurants, but every other night we ate lobster fresh from the traps and steamed and dipped in butter--still my favorite way to tuck into those big, red crustaceans.

As we drove east from Bangor, away from city life and closer to the pine-scented forests and crisp, clean ocean breezes, both my husband and I began to breathe easier. People are scarce in Washington County; only about 33,500 people live on its 2,500 square miles.

The gently rolling land is filled with hiking trails, lakes, and state and national parks. Fish and wildlife are plentiful, from black bears and moose to loons and arctic puffins on Machias's Seal Island. My family and I have enjoyed hikes along Cutler Bold Coast State Park, five miles of breathtaking ocean-view trails, as well as through Lubec's West Quoddy Head State Park, where the state's only red and white lighthouse overlooks Carrying Place Cove.

Inland, we go swimming in Meddybemps Lake, hike in Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge near Calais, and tour Raye's Mustard Mill to see how stone-ground mustard is made.

The pace here is slower and made for talking with local innkeepers, restaurant patrons, and fellow hikers. Locals might not be chatty right off the bat, but if you fall for the scenery and come back, you'll be remembered.

Late spring and summer are the best seasons to visit Maine. Long, warm days beckon you to check out the state's history. It's an ancient land, home to many tribes of Indians, including the Algonquins, who named Passamaquoddy Bay, which separates Maine from Canada.

Though stopping at St. Croix Island International Historic Site is mostly an excuse to watch the comings and goings in the bay, it's also the earliest colonial settlement in America. My husband, a Virginian, was shocked to discover that Pierre Dugua Sieur de Mons, accompanied by Samuel Champlain and 77 others, set up camp on St. Croix Island in 1607, years before Jamestown, VA, was settled. The camp didn't last longer than one Maine winter, but it's an example of the surprises northeastern Maine holds.

At low tide, the Passamaquoddy is so empty it seems as if you could walk to Canada. You'd have to move pretty quickly in deep mud, though, because the tides come in as fast as an inch a minute and rise or fall by about 20 feet. Because ocean swimming can be treacherous, walking the beaches, wading into the cold Atlantic, and examining the tidal pools and quartz caves are more appealing.

The region is blessedly free of most chain hotels--visitors tend to stay in bed & breakfasts, camp out, or rent private residences. One of the best B&Bs is Milliken House in Eastport. Located in a restored 1846 Victorian house and run for the past three years by Bill and Mary Williams, it feels like a home away from home. Rooms, each with private bath, are $65 a night year-round, and one suite is available for $75 a night. Breakfasts are large and tasty--make sure you try the blueberry pancakes. After all, 90 percent of the country's blueberries are harvested in Washington County.

The blueberries are a bit like the region itself--something ancient made sweeter by harsh winters and bright, warm summers, glacier-ridged hillsides, and steep ocean cliffs.

The Milliken House
29 Washington St.
Eastport, ME 04631
888-507-9370
www.eastport-inn.com

Ayesha Court is a freelance writer who now lives in Washington, DC.

May 2003