Dining in Paris doesn't have to mean pheasant under glass and an astronomical check. True Parisian food can be found in the city's bistros, casual and relatively inexpensive restaurants that feature classic French dishes. And we could think of no one better to choose his favorite bistros for us than Anthony Dias Blue. Andy is the wine and spirits editor for Bon Appétit magazine, the wine columnist for American Way, and a daily contributor to CBS Radio on restaurants, hotels, and travel. Most importantly in this case, he's a frequent visitor to Paris.

"There are hundreds of these cozy, boisterous, and delicious places all over town," Andy concedes, "but I wanted to pick my very favorite."

After exhaustive (and nourishing) research, here is Andy's list of the best. How much does he like Parisian bistros? He's invited 45 of his closest friends to celebrate his birthday next month at one of them. Unless otherwise noted, prices at most of these places will run between $35 and $50 a person, including wine and tip. The country code for France is 33, and the city code for Paris is 1.

BISTRO BESTS

- Allard
41, rue Saint-André-des-Arts (6eme)
43-26-48-23
This famous Saint Germain bistro had been drifting< since M. Allard's death more than a decade ago, but it's been revived by the new, hands-on patron M. Leyrac. Allard's signature dish is Canard aux Olives, duck roasted with olives. The Coq au Vin, chicken in a dark, thick wine sauce, is also superb.

- A Sousceyrac
35, rue Faidherbe (11eme)
43-71-65-30
The Asfaux family offers some of the richest bistro food in town. From October to December, the house specialty is a must: Lievre à la Royale, or potted wild hare cooked in red wine and blended with foie gras and truffles. Try the fine cassoulet and sweetbreads.

- Auberge D'Chez Eux
2, Avenue de Lowendal (7eme)
47-05-52-55
This charming bistro just behind Les Invalides offers the most spectacular selection of pork products in Paris. Le Chariot de Cochonailles is a cart filled with sausages, hams, rillettes, pâtés, and terrines. There is an equally impressive cart of salads. Main dishes include transcendental Boeuf Bourguignonne and other bistro classics.

- Au Moulin A Vent Chez Henri
20, rue des Fosses-Saint-Bernard (5eme)
43-54-99-37
This charming place near the Sorbonne is the spot for beef, especially faux fillet (rump steak), a rustic cut. The escargots are great, as are the frogs' legs. The restaurant is named after the richest Beaujolais cru, and, fittingly, Beaujolais is the house wine.

- Benoit
20, rue Saint-Martin (4eme)
42-72-25-76
Right near the Pompidou Center, Benoit is chic and a bit more refined than some of the others on this list. It is also a little more expensive due, in part, to its Michelin star. Best dishes are the beef salad, blood sausage with apples, tongue with herb sauce, and the dense cassoulet.

- Chez Georges
1, rue de Mail (2eme)
42-60-07-11
A classic place serving hearty, delicious bistro food. Start with the wonderful herring, then the grilled fillet with lush Bernaise sauce. There's also beef with mustard sauce, grilled duck, and superb leg of lamb.

- Chez L'Ami Louis
32, rue de Vertbois (2eme)
48-87-77-48
This is the bistro of bistros. Located in one of the poorest parts of town, this world-famous place offers the best foie gras, snails, beef, chicken, and game in Paris. Reservations are hard to come by and prices are very high. Anyone who cares about good food should eat here at least once.

- Josphine (Chez Dumonet)
117, rue du Cherche-Midi (6eme)
45-48-52-40
This small, cozy place offers food that is a touch more sophisticated than that served by some of the others. There is fabulous foie gras and, in season, truffles. The cooking is lovely and quite superb. Don't miss the soufflé for dessert.

- Le Petit Marguery
9, boulevard de Port-Royal (13eme)
43-31-58-59
This out-of-the-way bistro offers hearty food prepared by the Cousin brothers. Game is the specialty in season, and there is a great selection of game terrines. Comfortable and lively.

December 2000