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Chillin' Out in Quebec Proves Ice Can Be Fun The first time I saw Quebec, I thought I'd stepped into a fairy tale. I arrived at night, and it was snowing. Warm pools of light from cozy-looking restaurants were reflected by fresh snow on the ground in Quebec's Old Quarter, anchored by the castle-like Chateau Frontenac. Forget the fact everyone around me spoke French--even without that touch, this was the most foreign place I'd ever visited in North America. Today, Quebec retains its charm, and winter is one of the most magical times to visit. I asked our contributing editor, Ruth Hill, to visit Quebec and bring us up to date on its popular winter festival. Here is her report: The comely bas-relief nude on the Ice Hotel Quebec-Canada guest-room wall needed repairs, the sculptor explained. A recently departed guest had robbed the mermaid Sylvie of her femininity. In consideration of the evening's guest arrivals, repairs were urgent, Louis said, as his gloved hand added another handful of snow to the buildup. "The down sleeping bags keep the body temperatures up," he advised, "but the eye candy can do even more to make guests comfortable." Opposite Sylvie was a queen-sized block of ice covered only by animal pelts. This would be somebody's bed for the night. Clearly, body comfort is not uppermost on the minds of people who pay an average $400 per person for this chilling experience. For most overnighters, it's the thrill, the challenge of just being and surviving in a structure made entirely of snow and ice. And yes, there's scenery--an eclectic array of art in the private rooms, lobby, and galleries. Last year's ice-and-snow hotel attracted 60,000 visitors for not only overnights, but also for tours and special events. The property was a setting for fashion shoots, a couple of TV commercials, and a music video. Ice Hotel Quebec-Canada is only one winter diversion for Quebecois and visitors. During the two weeks of Quebec Winter Carnival (Carnaval de Quebec) revelry Jan. 30 through Feb. 15, Canadians prove they know not only how to endure winter, but also how to sculpt it, toast it, roll in it, poke fun at it, decorate it, and celebrate it. You can keep warm by dropping by one of the area's maple sugar cabins and spending an evening dancing to a Cajun beat. And strolling inside the ancient ramparts of Old Quebec, with its winding streets, historic facades, bistros, and shops, is entrancing any time of year. Chilly Quarters The Ice Hotel-Quebec is no one-room igloo. In about 30,000 square feet, the hotel offers 32 rooms and suites that accommodate up to 80 people per night. The infrastructure is 12,000 tons of snow and nearly 400 tons of ice. Once inside, you'll find the Absolut Ice Bar, a movie theater, Jacuzzis, fireplaces, reception room, and shared heated toilet and shower facilities. Doors and locks aren't part of the amenities. Skimpy cloth curtains hung from rods imbedded in icy door posts serve as doors to guest rooms. But no matter, few people remove their clothes, at least within corridor view. Some guests who really want to make lifetime memories marry in the Ice Hotel's crystal-clear chapel and spend their first honeymoon night in sleeping bags. Others pay an entry fee to sip vodka from tumblers made of solid ice in the bar or just to walk through the hotel. (The hotel accepts guests Jan. 9 through April 4.) A nightclub, N'Ice Club, holds up to 400 people; Thursday night is comedy night, Friday features DJs, and the Ice Band plays on Saturdays. Outside activities nearby include dog sledding, ice fishing, ice skating, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and even snow golf. Winter Carnival Events Quebec Winter Carnival has been the world's biggest winter celebration since 1954, and the third-largest carnival after those in New Orleans and Rio. So there's much to do, especially this year, when the festival is celebrating its 50th anniversary. Quebec City's big show offers more than 300 activities and events. For example, the legendary canoe race is a true test of courage and grit. Teams from around the world attempt to cross the St. Lawrence River between Quebec City and Levis through ice, treacherous currents, and arctic temperatures. Dogsled races as well as night parades featuring floats and marching bands round out the party. The annual international snow-sculpture competition attracts sculptors from around the world. At night, the Ice Palace, home of the Carnival's jolly mascot, Bonhomme, becomes a shimmering, translucent harbor of lights on the historic Plains of Abraham. Kids enjoy activities such as ice slides and tubes, relay races, and an ice maze. Always Hot: The Old Quarter The heart of Carnival events is just outside the historic stone walls of the old city, Vieux Quebec, the part of Quebec City that's designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside those ancient ramparts, winding streets evoke a European charm and beg the visitor to walk past historic doorways, boutiques, bistros, and shops. During Carnival time, a covering of white adds to the magic. In rural, forested areas outside the city, visitors can enjoy one of the area's maple sugar cabins. Stops such as Erabliere du Lac Beauport, www.erabliere-lac-beauport.qc.ca/anglais/invitation.htm, open a window onto the centuries-old Quebec sugaring industry. An evening of rompin', stompin', fiddlin' folk music may remind some guests of Louisiana Cajun encounters. At long tables covered with checkered cloths, visitors chow down like lumberjacks on all-you-can-eat traditional sugar-shack meals: maple-flavored brown beans and pork, maple ham, meat pie, French Canadian pea soup, and about a dozen other hearty dishes. Fiddlers who never seem to take breaks keep the energy level high--perhaps it's the unlimited supply of "caribou," a Carnival concoction of red wine, maple syrup, and vodka. When it gets too hot inside, folks migrate outdoors to make maple taffy. In troughs of pristine snow, they roll popsicle sticks into warm syrup until it hardens into candy. And on that crisp, clear February night lit by a full moon in the Quebec forest, Ruth said life seemed very, very sweet. Grosse Ile--Quebec's Immigrant Stopover Winter is splendid in Quebec province, but summer is special, too. From mid-May through mid-October, visitors can explore history on Grosse-Ile, Canada's version of Ellis Island. In the early 19th century, major epidemics of infectious diseases such as cholera and typhus on the Continent caused people to settle in North America. Canadian authorities feared the spread of disease and established a quarantine station on Grosse Ile. It had geographical advantages, including proximity to the city (but a safe distance from most of the residents) and shipping routes. From 1832 to 1937, this St. Lawrence River isle received more than four million immigrants. The first quarantine facilities were hastily built by a military detachment from the British army. Over time, more buildings were raised, including a hospital and "hotels" for immigrants traveling first, second, and third class, and even schools and churches. Thus, the island gradually took on a village feel. About 40 buildings survive today. Several, including a disinfection station where gigantic metal boilers, shower cubicles, and wire cages for personal property taken for processing, are open to visitors. Memorials at the Irish cemetery commemorate the tragedy of 1847, when more than 5,000 immigrants died of typhus. Several ferry companies provide scenic, 90-minute river voyages to this historic site from Quebec City. A typical island stay is about four hours. Tourist trolleys carry visitors to some of the island's sites; others are accessible by foot. A restaurant, picnic tables, and a gift shop are part of the complex. For more information, contact 800-463-6769 or visit online at www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grosseile. Just the Facts: Winter in Quebec Ice Hotel Quebec opens Jan. 9 and closes April 4 for its annual meltdown. Quebec Winter Carnival is Jan. 31-Feb. 16. More info: www.bonjourquebec.com, www.icehotel-canada.com, and www.carnaval.qc.ca; or call 866-422-7628. Places to Sleep Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac Hotel Manoir Victoria Hotel Loews Le Concorde Hotel Clarendon Hotel Chateau Laurier Auberge Saint-Antoine Marriott Courtyard Quebec Where to Dine Café du Monde Saint-Amour Initiale Le Restaurant Lapin Saute Portofino Bistro Italiano Voodoo Grill December 2003 |
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