The ideal way to escape the damp chill of winter is to partake in the centuries-old custom of afternoon tea. And no where is tea done better than in London.

It's a pleasant and civilized way to revive oneself as well as a relatively inexpensive way to experience some of the old establishment, upper-crust hotels without having to check in. Tea can substitute for a meal, too. It's easy to pass up lunch when you know that in the middle of the afternoon you'll be enjoying finger sandwiches, scones and pastries. Or you may opt for a seating closer to 5 p.m. and enjoy the more substantial High Tea, which began originally as dinner for working-class families on tight food budgets. With its additional plates of smoked or poached salmon salad, Stilton cheese tart or scrambled eggs, High Tea can still qualify as a meal.

Contributing writer Olwen Woodier takes afternoon tea every day she can on her frequent trips to London. She says the ritual is fully ingrained in her British psyche, and she highly recommends five leading hotels.

Claridge's. Considered one of London's most gracious hotels, Claridge's is sometimes called the "resort of Kings and Princes" because so many visiting royals stay there. Afternoon tea is held in the Reading Room where art deco links arms with Elizabethan antiques. Tea begins with three-tiered plates holding dainty sandwiches filled with smoked salmon, chicken, ham, and cucumber and cream cheese. Tiny cheese-filled puff pastries and apple-raisin scones are so moist the bowls of Devonshire clotted cream and strawberry preserves seem almost unnecessary. Miniature cakes and pastries are scrumptious morsels of mocha-flavored chocolate and lemon meringue. Pots of tea hold fragrant Darjeeling, sweet Chamomile or your favorite flavor.

Brown's. Comfortable elegance reigns here, and it's easy to relax in deep armchairs and couches in one of the wood-paneled lounges. The headwaiter recites an impressive list of teas before bringing a three-tiered plate holding finger sandwiches including one with a delicious, if unusual, sardine filling. Miniature soft-crust rolls are filled with egg and watercress. Scones studded with raisins and served with rich clotted cream and preserves arrive at the same time as the tiny lemon meringue tarts and other pastries. Fresh raspberries and strawberries complete the tray. Just when the repast seems over, the waiter sets down a large silver tray bearing Victoria sandwich cake and fruitcake.

The Ritz. Because of scheduled sittings at 3:30 and 5 p.m., reservations--as far as six weeks in advance during prime tourist weeks--are essential. Afternoon tea is served in the Palm Court. This elevated, open room adjoining the lobby is surrounded with marble columns and illuminated by a domed Victorian skylight. Seating here is traditional dining style with damask-clad chairs encircling round tables. Lapsang Souchong or another selection of tea is served with finger sandwiches containing interesting combinations of cucumber and anchovy, smoked turkey and sweet mustard, and cottage cheese with carrot and hazelnuts. Scones are followed by a selection of pastries and miniature cakes. Dress up, as casual tourist attire is discouraged.

The Dorchester. The hotel du choix of the British Royals ever since it was built in 1931, The Dorchester has also become the home-away-from-home for many American celebrities. Tea is served in The Promenade that runs the entire length of the ground floor. Italian marble covers the vast floor and panels of Delft-style tiles decorate the walls. Whether you sink into the deep couches or sit on comfortable banquets, you'll recognize famous faces passing through the lobby. Even though it may be difficult to tear your eyes away, the sandwiches, scones, pastries and cakes are also worthy of your attention. The Dorchester just won the Top Afternoon Tea award for the London area based on the quality of tea, refreshments, service, china and decor.

The Athenaeum. This boutique, luxury hotel offers tea in an anteroom that lets you order specifically what you want, perfect for a lighter (and less expensive) afternoon. A small box with a button on your table silently summons a server should you require another dollop of clotted cream. Watch for everyone from Claudia Schiffer to Joan Collins at nearby tables.

SPOTS FOR TEA

When in London, do not dial the country code (44), but do add a zero in front of the new, downtown London prefix of "207."

Claridge's
Brook Street, Mayfair W1A2JQ
Phone: (44) 207-629-8860
Reservations: (44) 207-409-6229
http://www.savoy-group.co.uk/claridges/dining/tea.html
Cost: weekdays, $27; with champagne, $3
weekends, $39; with champagne, $43

Brown's Hotel
29-34 Albermarle Street
Mayfair W1X4BP
Phone: (44) 207-493-6020
E-mail: tea@brownshotel.com
Cost: $30; with champagne, $39

The Ritz
150 Piccadilly, London W1J9BR
Phone: (44) 207-493-8181
http://www.theritzhotel.co.uk/tea/index.html
Cost: $39 (champagne is not served with afternoon tea)

The Dorchester Hotel
Park Lane, London W1A2HJ
Phone: (44) 207-629-8888
E-mail: info@dorchesterhotel.com
Cost: $34; with champagne, $47; High Tea: $41

The Athenaeum Hotel & Apartments
116 Piccadilly, London W1J 7BJ
Phone: (44) 207-499-3464
E-mail: info@athenaeumhotel.com
Cost: $22-$25

November 2000