Carnaval may be over, but there's still plenty to see and do in Rio--diverse cultural events, stunning natural beauty, excellent food and some of the skimpiest bathing suits in the Western Hemisphere. To make sure you'll have plenty of spending money while you're there, we gave contributing editor Brooke Comer this challenging mission: Find the best hotel bargains in choice locations for under $100 a night.

Brooke not only found affordable lodging; she discovered several hotels in exclusive Ipanema Beach and nearby Copacabana Beach. These two areas--which are within walking or biking distance of each other if you're in good physical condition--offer some of Rio's finest hotels, luxury apartments, restaurants and boutiques set among trees and parks. Visitors can safely explore this area on foot without having to worry about crime. For the record, tourist crime in Rio has dropped dramatically in past years thanks to better police work. Brooke reported that she felt safer on Avenida Atlantica, Copacabana's main drag, than she does on Fifth Avenue in New York.

The hotels that face Ipanema and Copacabana's beaches command top dollar ($250-plus per night) because they offer an uninterrupted view of Rio's spectacular coast and the art deco pavement that Brazilian artist Roberto Brule Marx created to adorn the beachfront avenue. But Brooke was determined to find a hotel on the water, with a view, within her budget.

She found the Arpoador Inn, situated on a jutting edge of coastline where Ipanema meets Copacabana, near the historic Copacabana Fort. Rooms start at $50, but only some face the water so be sure to ask for a room with a view. Brooke loved the inn's simple charm. Rooms are small and simply furnished with the basics. The rate includes a hearty continental breakfast featuring memorable dark roast coffee served in a large, sunny room overlooking the promenade between the hotel and the water.

The Arpoador's sister hotel, the Ipanema Inn, is in the heart of Ipanema, which is considered more exclusive than Copacabana. That's why the Ipanema Inn, further from the beach, charges $61 a night. Rooms in this small, modern hotel reminded Brooke of American chain motels in terms of décor, with minibars, and an ample, complimentary breakfast.

After a day on the beach, Brooke discovered that the Rio surf has a strong undertow and decided she needed to strengthen her stroke in a contained environment. She began to shop around for hotels with pools. Her first best find was the Copacabana Mar, a sleek, glass, high- rise hotel in Copacabana. The spacious lobby gleamed with polished granite floors and golden light. Well- appointed rooms cost $90 and were enhanced with fresh flowers and intriguing local art. The rooftop pool was large, and the roof offered an expansive view of the surrounding area and mountains behind.

The Mirasol, just a block and a half from Copacabana Beach, also made the grade: Rates start at $90, and some rooms come with Jacuzzi tubs. The Mirasol offers international direct dial phones and a delectable array of baked goods at the complimentary breakfast. The pool on the roof terrace may be small, but the view at sunset makes up for it.

When Brooke had soaked up enough sun and was ready to do some serious sightseeing, she checked into the Real Palace Hotel on the northern tip of Copacabana farther from the water and closer to the Arco Verde metro stop. Rio's safe, clean and easy-to-navigate metro system is a great way to get downtown and see such sights as the 18th century Candelaria Church, the Municipal Theater, the National Fine Arts Museum, and the Saint Benedict Monastery. Brooke's $80 room at the Real Palace was small and simple (as was the rooftop pool), but an in-room refrigerator allowed her to stock up on bottled water and save on room service charges.

Thanks to an excellent guide named Angelica from the Rio Convention and Visitors Bureau, Brooke visited Rio's main attractions: the Botanical Gardens where Prince Regent John VI planted the spectacular Imperial Palm trees in 1809; the miniature train ride through the lush Atlantic rainforest to the top of the Corcovado Mountain where Christ the Redeemer stands; and the cable car from the top of Urca Hill to the tip of Sugarloaf Mountain.

And for dining, Angelica introduced her to the gourmet cuisine at the art nouveau landmark restaurant Confeitaria Columbo, where Belgian mirrors and Italian marble benches create a Belle Époque ambiance. Later that evening, they puffed Cuban cigars at La Casa Del Habano, a lively hotspot for the young, upscale set.

A friend of Brooke's with a passion for Brazilian folk art had raved about the selection of woodblock prints, wooden and ceramic sculptures, and textiles at a store called Pe de Bois, a $5 taxi ride from Copacabana. Owner Ana Maria Chindler, who speaks fluent English, is very knowledgeable on the subject of national art and Brazil's diverse folk customs.

On a visit to the Chacara do Ceu Museum where the works of artists including Picasso, Miro, Matisse and Dali are hung, Brooke was charmed by the hillside community of Santa Teresa between Copacabana and downtown Rio. Angelica explained that Santa Teresa had a reputation as a Bohemian arts community early in the century that flourished into the late 60s, when American hippies migrated there to paint, write and soak up the good vibrations. Today, it's still a mecca for artists. The steep, narrow hillside streets and informal cafes reminded Brooke of small towns in Italy. Seized with a desire to spend more time there, she was delighted to discover the Santa Teresa Hotel, a very modest but safe, clean property where room rates are $18 for a single, and $36 for a double.

"The Santa Teresa Hotel isn't for everyone," Brooke warns, pointing out the lack of refrigerators in the rooms, room service and satellite TV. In the whitewashed, Spanish-style building on a hill rich with local history, she felt like a guest in a monastery. Her room was large, the beds and armoires possibly antiques. The beach was far away, but you only have to open a window to get a city view and a strong breeze. The breeze is a big plus, because the Santa Teresa Hotel has no air conditioning. It does have ghosts, however-- creative souls, artists and writers--who visit guests only in their dreams and tell their stories in a language that every visitor can understand. One is not haunted at the Santa Teresa Hotel, but inspired.

RIO BARGAINS

Note: These rates do not apply during Carnaval, which takes place around Ash Wednesday in February. At that time, Rio's hotel rates skyrocket and rooms are scarce. It's helpful to know some Spanish or Portuguese when booking at the less expensive hotels, such as the Santa Teresa, where the staff is less likely to speak English.

Room rates are for two people and include breakfast. When calling from abroad, the country code for Brazil is 55; the city code for Rio is 21.

- Arpoador Inn: $50/night; 523-0060
Fax: 511-5094
Arpoador@unisys.com.br
www.ipanema.com/hotel/arpoador_inn.htm

- Ipanema Inn: $61/night; 523-6092
Fax: 511-5094
arpoador@unisys.com.br
www.ipanema.com/hotel/ipanema_inn.htm

- Copacabana Mar: $90/night; 542-5141
Fax: 275-2299
reserva@copacabanamar.com.br

- Mirasol: $90/night: 542-8787; fax: 542-8161

- Real Palace: $80/night; 541-4387; fax: 542-2398
reservas@realpalacehotelrj.com.br
www.realpalacehotelrj.com.br

- Santa Teresa Hotel: $36/night
Phone: 508-9355 or 508-9088

- Confeitaria Columbo Restaurant
Lunch for two, $15-30; 232-2300

- La Casa Del Habano: drinks for two, $3-6
Phone: 507-5866; fax: 224-8021,
www.eschcasadelhabano.com.br

- Pe de Bois: Rua Ipiranga 55; 285-4395
www.pedeboi.com.br

Tour Options

- Brazil Tours: 800-544-5503;
www.brazilres.com

- Brazilnuts: 800-553-9959;
www.brazilnuts.com

- Varig Travel Vacations: 800-352-9188

- Transmares (A US-based ticket consolidator that specializes in airline tickets to Brazil)
Phone: 305-372-1314

April 2001